Tuesday, December 7, 2010

The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles: The Range Reviews: Remington R-25 Multi-Caliber AR-10

The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles: The Range Reviews: Remington R-25 Multi-Caliber AR-10

© 2010 Albert A Rasch and
The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles
$g&m f9bd 45kd q!?5.


The Range Reviews: Remington R-25


I recently had the opportunity to field test the Knight's Armament Company's SR-110 SASS here in Afghanistan. Unfortunately I was not permmited to take any pictures. Shoot, I couldn't have any civilian communications, recording, or even an IPod when I went into the camp I was visiting. No worries though, I had a good time!

That got me to thinking about Remington's offer, the R-25. I had recieved notice on the weapon some time ago, but being more of the wood and rust blued steel kind of guy, I had filed the email in the "From the Manufacturer" file. I burrowed through the file and pulled it out, and studied the information available on the net.

Let's check the specs out. The upper and lower receivers are made from aluminum forgings. The handguard is a turned aluminum tube. All parts are impervious to the weather, so weather changes will have no effect on accuracy. The Remington R-25 rifle has a free-floating 20 inch fluted barrel, that is button rifled in a 1:10 twist rate. Remington had the good taste to provide a recessed crown at the muzzle. Moving to the receiver, you will find a Mil-Std-1913 “Picatinny” top rail. You can mount any number of optics with standard MilSpec mounts on the rail. The gas block where the front sight mounts, has rail slots for mounting other accessories such as a laser. The R-25’s pistol grip is identical to the AR-15/M16 and AR-10 series rifles, as is the buttstock. On the bottom of the buttstock and forearm are sling swivel studs. The butt also has the standard hinged trapdoor lid designed to hold a military cleaning kit, but that is not included.




Just like your AR15 or M16/M4, a captive pin at the rear of the upper receiver pushes out, the upper can then pivot forward on the front pin. You now have access to the bolt and trigger group. With the upper receiver pivoted forward, pull back on the charging handle and the bolt slides out for maintenance and cleaning.

Now, to placate Kalifornia, the factory R-25 magazine's capacity is a measely 4 rounds for all calibers. That's still three more than my Ruger #1, but luckily the R-25 will accept standard 20-round AR-10 magazines. Overall length for the Remington R-25 is 39.75 inches, and the average weight for the rifle is 8.75 lbs.

Interestingly, Remington opted to make the R-25 available three additional calibers, all based on the 308 Winchester case. The R-25 is configured to allow users to switch between 7.62mm NATO/.308 Win., .243 Win., and 7mm-08 Rem., simply by switching upper receivers. For hunting applications, this might be an optimal solution for those that require a multi-calber solution for different hunting applications. In my opinion, the Remington Model R-25 multi-caliber rifle could stand to add a couple of more rounds to its repetoire: 358 Winchester, and the 260 Remington! Now we are talking versatility.




For those that are interested in the tactical applications of the rifle in addition to the hunting capabilities, you will find that the the AR-10/AR15 family does not require one to "refamiliarize" oneself with a completely different platform. Whether tactical operations or hunting applications, you can concentrate on what you are doing. Operation of the firearm, the ergonomics, and all the controls are identical. Furthermore as options are added to the rifle you can test them under real world, albeit non-threatening, conditions.

Now for the some of the less than desireable features:
-I am told that the trigger is lousy out of the box. Nothing new there, as most rifles exhibit poor, lawyer-proof triggers. Fortunately, there are plenty of aftermarket triggers you can install and make the trigger purr.
-There are many reports of the 308 version jamming with anything but commercial ammo.

Remington Model R-25 Multi-Caliber Rifle Features and Specifications:

- Free-floated button-rifled 0.680″ Muzzle OD ChroMoly barrels with recessed hunting crown for superior accuracy
- Fluted barrel design reduces weight and promotes rapid barrel cooling
- Clean-breaking single-stage hunting trigger (factory set to 4.5-5lbs)
- Receiver-length Picatinny rail for adding optics and accessories
- Ergonomic pistol grip for rock solid aiming and control
- Front and rear sling swivel studs
- Full Mossy Oak® Treestand™ coverage
- Includes 4-round magazine
- Legal for hunting in most states
- Compatible with aftermarket DPMS 308 Win Magazine Boxes
- Lockable hard case included

Company Contact Info:

Remington Arms Company, Inc.
870 Remington Drive
P.O. Box 700
Madison, NC 27025-0700
TEL: 1-800-243-9700
Fax: 1-336-548-7801
Email: info@remington.com
R-25 Info Page: http://www.remington.com/products/firearms/centerfire_rifles/Model_R-25.asp
Website: http://www.remington.com
MSRP is $1,532 USD.

There are several other semi-auto 7.62×51mm NATO/.308 Win.
tactical/sniper rifles that could conceivably be used in a hunting application. There are the AR-10 based systems like the Knight’s Armament Co. SR-M110 S.A.S.S. (Semi-Auto Sniper System), and Armalite's AR-10 SuperS.A.S.S. In addition there are the M1A variations like Springfield Armory's National Match M1A, Super Match M1A, or M25 Whitefeather Tactical/Carlos Hathcock M1A. Any of these have the capacity of being dual role rifles in your personal inventory.

Best Regards,
Albert A Rasch™
Member: Shindand Tent Club
Member: Hunting Sportsmen of the United States HSUS (Let 'em sue me.)
The Hunt Continues...


Albert Rasch,HunterThough he spends most of his time writing and keeping the world safe for democracy, Albert was actually a student of biology. Really. But after a stint as a lab tech performing repetitious and mind-numbing processes that a trained capuchin monkey could do better, he never returned to the field. Rather he became a bartender. As he once said, "Hell, I was feeding mice all sorts of concoctions. At the club I did the same thing; except I got paid a lot better, and the rats where bigger." He has followed the science of QDM for many years, and fancies himself an aficionado. If you have any questions, or just want to get more information, reach him via TheRaschOutdoorChronicles(at)MSN(dot)com.



Best Regards,
Member: Shindand Tent Club
The Hunt Continues...

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Monday, December 6, 2010

The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles: The Range Reviews: Recreating the 18th Century Powder Horn

The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles: The Range Reviews: Recreating the 18th Century Powder Horn

© 2010 Albert A Rasch™ and
The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles
$g&m f9bd 45kd q!?5.

The Range Reviews

After watching me struggle, cuss, and hack my way through two powder horn projects, niether of which is really complete, and fill up my little corner of the living room with sawdust and horn detritus, my wife went and ordered  Recreating the 18th Century Powder Horn by Scott and Cathy Sibley.

I am eagerly anticipating going home next year and reading my new gift! In the mean time, I have to ensconce myself at my desk here in Afghanistan, and be satisfied to look at scans my wife has been sending me.

I was immediately taken by the clear photos and detailed instructions that made it easy to understand what and how to do any number different steps in the creation of an art quality powder horn. And not just one type mind you, but several different types.

The authors, Scott and Cathy Sibley are well known powder horn makers and scrimshaw artists. I Googled them up and found a variety of references to their work, especially at Contemporary Makers. Contemporary Makers is a blog that covers the contemporary artists in period gun work, including accouterments; well worth the visit!

Scott is both a retired soldier, and a retired teacher. Cathy is retired school administrator. They got started making powder horns and quill-work while teaching school in the outer most reaches of Alaska.

I have been diligently working on a powderhorn for one of my friends, and I am very anxious to complete it on my next R&R. I have already picked up quite a few hints and new ideas from the excellent explanations in the book. The clear and well posed pictures make it easy to understand, and the Sibley's skill is obvious. The photography deseves a mention of its own; the quality and clarity is superb!

The book is divided into 21 chapters. It starts off in logical fashion with "Tools and Materials," followed by "Selecting a Horn." Thereafter it explains how you should set up your work area, (Believe me, nothing like mine!) and then starts from the begining in a logical and step by step horn making manner. The photography complements the descriptions very well, and options are presented for different time periods or styles

 Just to be clear, I don't work in any recognized style, period, or era. Shoot, until I started reading about 17th and 18th century blackpowder stuff, I didn't even realize there were different eras! Now I know better...

The scrimshawing section of the book is very well illustrated and explained. My next attempt at scratching away on a powder horn should be more successful than not! Selecting the proper tools for your project and clear, step-by-step directions are given. Something I appreciated was the scrimshaw patterns at the back of the book. It gives you some idea of where you might want to go with your scrimshaw.



The last two chapters have examples of original horns, followed by horns made by Contemporary Makers. It is an excellant reference to guide you to those styles and eras I mentioned earlier!

I have found powder horn making to be a rewarding combination of crafts. Not only are you working with horn, but you will pick out and work with wood, and possibly do some metal shaping should the mood strike you, to complete your horn.There are techniques discussed for using dyes or stains, many types of carving are covered, along with filing and shaping tools. The end result of the mess you are going to make, is a beautiful powder horn for your collection that will merit both artistic and practical praise.

For those of you looking for an entertaining and productive pasttime, maybe an activity to take your mind off of something, working with your hands to make a powder horn will be very rewarding. You will find  Recreating the 18th Century Powder Horn is an incredible reference for the budding horn maker. I would recomend it without reservation!


Recreating the 18th Century Powder Horn

Softcover, $19.95

91 pages, 11" x 8-1/2"

ISBN 0-9765797-0-7

Best Regards,
Albert A Rasch
Member: Shindand Tent Club
Member: Hunting Sportsmen of the United States HSUS (Let 'em sue me.)
The Hunt Continues...


Though he spends most of his time writing and keeping the world safe for democracy, Albert was actually a student of biology. Really. But after a stint as a lab tech performing repetitious and mind-numbing processes that a trained capuchin monkey could do better, he never returned to the field. Rather he became a bartender. As he once said, "Hell, I was feeding mice all sorts of concoctions. At the club I did the same thing; except I got paid a lot better, and the rats where bigger." He has followed the science of QDM for many years, and fancies himself an aficionado. If you have any questions, or just want to get more information, reach him via TheRaschOutdoorChronicles(at)MSN(dot)com.

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The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles: After the Shot, Tracking and Trailing

The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles: After the Shot, Tracking and Trailing

© 2009, 2010 Albert A Rasch and
The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles
$g&m f9bd 45kd q!?5.

Even with every preparation, proper equipment choice, and skill, there are always times when game is not killed outright. A moments inattention, or perhaps premature congratulation may allow an animal to run off when the hunter should have been preparing for a follow-up shot.

It's that time of year again, and folks are out there filling there tags. Recovering game that doesn't drop immediately after the first shot, requires a moment of thought, and the acknowledgment that the work is just beginning.

The first thing you need to do, even before taking the first shot, is to be aware of the surroundings. You have to know where you are, and where your quarry is. When you have the shot, and take it, know where the quarry is exactly. As the range increases the difficulty of finding the exact spot becomes more difficult.

Also watch the reaction of your game. Deer will take off at a dead run, or jump straight up and kick when hit in the ticker. Hogs turn on the afterburners when shot and then either pile up or get into cover. Watch where the animal goes and try to remember where you lost sight of it.

After taking the shot, crank your scope down as low as it goes. You'll thank me for it later if you need to get an animal in your sights quickly.

When you make your way to the spot where the animal was, carefully note any sign such as hair or blood. Also sight along the path it took on its way out. The blood left at the initial site may provide clues to determine where you hit. Bright red, frothy blood indicates a lung shot. Dark colored blood could mean the liver was struck. A heart shot will be bright red blood. Look for signs that may indicate a poor shoot. If there is digested vegetation mixed in with the blood it could very well indicate a paunch hit.

When an animal takes off, the direction it went will frequently be marked by blood spatters. At times it may diminish to drops. This is all too common with hogs, where the fat and hide will frequently stop the external bleeding. It is important to follow up slowly and carefully, noting every drop of blood and every disturbed leaf. Blood can be anywhere from the sides of the trail to the ground. Wild Ed of Wild Ed's Outdoors, reminds us also to keep an eye on the brush or grass on either side of the track, not just at ground level but higher. The height can indicate where an animal has been hit. Mark your observations with tissue paper or surveyors tape, (Make sure you pick it up when you are done!) so that if need be, you can retrace your steps.

If you lose the track, go back to the last sign you found and carefully start again. Remember look at it from the animal's perspective. This means get down on your hands and knees. You will be surprised what it looks like from down there! Follow the path of least resistance.

Always be on the lookout for your game. It could be that dark spot there, or the light line there. Always be ready.

Tracking a wounded animal is hard work and a grave responsibility. Every effort should be made to recover a lost animal. In many states there are tracking services available that use blood tracking dogs to find lost game.

Born-To-Track News and Views covers the Blood Tracking dog world, and in particular the Wire Haired Dachshunds. Look through the archives and you will find several posts on deer that have been found by these amazing dogs. And golly, they are cute as can be!

In those states where dogs cannot be used, then you must use every sense and every clue to find your animal. Perseverance and patience are the keys to recovery.


Best Regards,
Albert A Rasch™
Member: Shindand Tent Club
Member: Hunting Sportsmen of the United States HSUS (Let 'em sue me.)
The Hunt Continues...


Though he spends most of his time writing and keeping the world safe for democracy, Albert was actually a student of biology. Really. But after a stint as a lab tech performing repetitious and mind-numbing processes that a trained capuchin monkey could do better, he never returned to the field. Rather he became a bartender. As he once said, "Hell, I was feeding mice all sorts of concoctions. At the club I did the same thing; except I got paid a lot better, and the rats where bigger." He has followed the science of QDM for many years, and fancies himself an aficionado. If you have any questions, or just want to get more information, reach him via TheRaschOutdoorChronicles(at)MSN(dot)com.




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The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles: Avoid Gettin' Snake Bit! A Chronicles' Classic

"I did a little research when I got back in the house. The anti-venom for a Cottonmouth bite is called Crofab Crotalidae Polyvalent Immune Fab (Ovine). It is critical to get anti-venom in the patient as soon as possible to minimize necrotic damage to the tissue and coagulopathy."

The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles: Avoid Gettin' Snake Bit! A Chronicles' Classic

How to avoid getting bit by snakes
What to do if you get bit by a snake
What anti-venom should you use
What antivenom should you use
What to do if you get bit by a snake.
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